Yangshuo / Update

Posted by ANTTI LOUHI | | Posted On perjantai 15. huhtikuuta 2011

Today we went out to a place called "Low Mountain". Most of the routes are slightly overhanging but still only of intermediate difficulty because of the good pocket holds that make the climbs easier.


"The Pig Emperors".


Pocket holds.

I've always wondered what's happening inside of these small holes as we are close to tropics and the jungles of this country are full of nasty-looking creatures.

I got an answer when we were about to start climbing one of the easier warm-up routes.


This murderous snake came out of the pocket hold and sent us running down the hill.

It started to rain this afternoon and the weather forecast doesn't look too promising for the next week. We decided to travel south and bought train tickets to a city called Nanning.


From there we try to travel further on south and cross the border to Vietnam. Hopefully we arrive to Hanoi on Sunday morning if everything goes as planned.


Climbing the last route of the trip. "Die another day".

Through the Paddy Fields, Yangshuo

Posted by ANTTI LOUHI | | Posted On torstai 14. huhtikuuta 2011

We left Hong Kong a week ago and travelled to a small village called Yangshuo in mainland China. This place is a popular tourist destination among the Chinese and according to the Emperor, Yangshuo is the most beautiful place on earth. Though the weather is currently a little hazy and the sun is hiding behind the clouds, the Emperor was right. Yangshuo is a paradise at least for all who like to spend their time climbing karst mountains in beautiful scenery.

The area surrounding Yangshuo is full of limestone towers with almost 500 climbing routes. I'm not sure what the Chinese tourists are doing here but our mission is simple: to climb as many routes as possible until the weather window closes. It rains normally quite much in April but so far we've enjoyed warm and dry weather and climbed every day as much as possible. Our muscles are aching and no skin is left in our fingers but there's nothing better than to wake up, eat and hit the mountains. Evenings are pretty much spent at our favourite climber hang-out, Bar 98, just one-minute walk from our guest house. It really can't get much better than this!

The only downside are the Chinese peasants that have started to harass climbers at some areas. They are angry because all the money goes to Yangshuo where climbers eat, sleep and drink and they can't make any money out of this growing climbing tourism. First they asked for baksheesh to enter the crags but as the rock towers are not on their land and nobody paid them, they started to chop off bolts from the routes so that it's not safe to climb anymore. So who's the winner? Probably Krabi in Thailand or any other climbing destination outside Yangshuo. Luckily, there have been some development and the farmers have started up small businesses near the crags to sell drinks and snacks to gain financial benefit from climbing. I hope this works and the access issues are gone for now because this place has potential for hundreds of more routes in future.

I'll stop writing now and hurry back to 98 as Puise and Teijo are waiting for me to share a couple of Tsing Taos and plan the climbs of tomorrow. Good vibes!




Crossing the border from Hong Kong to Shenzhen.


Dont worry, you don't have to help others if the plane crashes.


Looking for a bus from Guilin to Yangshuo.


Local beer fish (!) restaurants in Yangshuo.


We rented motorbikes to drive to the climbing crags. This helmet was part of the deal. Chinese standard quality.



The karst mountains are usually surrounded by farmland so we had to walk through the paddy fields to get to the foot of the towers.


Yangshuo landscape.


Teijo working on the boulderish first moves of "Absent Friends".


Ancient cave paintings.


Climbing a 100m multi-pitch route called "Penthouse Platforms". Teijo and Puise are waiting for me to finish the third pitch.


Puise finishing the last moves of the climb.


Recovering at the top.


Puise enjoying the farmlands.


All these elegant restaurants are too expensive for our budget..


..so we had to trust the street vendors and their Chinese specialities.


West Street by night. Puise and Teijo are bargaining a proper deal with a rickshaw wallah.


This is the last thing you want to see when you're withdrawing cash.


The arch of Moon Hill.


Negotiating the moves of "New Moon".


Sunset of Li River.


Lost.


This is the way how to get rid of climbers and growing tourism.



Teijo working on a route called "Lonely Marley".


Location:城北路,Guilin,Kiina

My Favourite City by the Sea, Hong Kong.

Posted by ANTTI LOUHI | | Posted On torstai 7. huhtikuuta 2011

We spent the last day in Moscow just hanging around in coffee bars and enjoying the first warm and sunny day of the spring. Snow was melting and mud started to cover the streets so we decided to continue our journey and headed for the airport. As I'm afraid of flying it was quite a mental challenge to board the tin can Aeroflot that was waiting for us at the Sheremetyevo. After nine hours of never-ending turbulence we landed to New York of the Orient - Hong Kong.

Hong Kong is one of those cities that you like immediatelly when you step out of the plane. Especially, if you dig New York or any other big metropolis, this is the place to visit. It's my fourth time here and I'm as excited as during the first visit some years ago when we took a train from Tibet to Hong Kong. It's all about city life, shopping, sky-high buildings, hundreds of different cultures, cheap electronics and climbing! Climbing? That's right, we actually managed to do some climbing after the trip to Russia. This is not the number one spot for climbing in Asia but there are still some high quality crags very close to the city center.

When we took a bus from airport to the town we saw this huge rock cliff dominating the skyline high above Kowloon. After one day of recovering we grabbed our gear and trekked half an hour through a monkey forest to the foot of the cliff. We completed the climb in five pitches and after three hours of climbing we stood at the summit of Lion Rock, 500m above Hong Kong. The view was stunning, very similar to Victoria Peak but from the other side of the city. Too bad Puise couldn't join us because his knee got thrashed by a subway gate in Moscow.

I'm having problems uploading pictures from my camera because we already crossed the border to mainland China and the Blogger site is currently being blocked by the Chinese government. Facebook, Youtube and other social medias are also closed down. I managed to send this post from my phone after some old school tricks but the connection is too slow for the large pictures in my camera. I try to upload some of the images later if I manage to use the Blogger site with a computer.




Ticket to the moon - choose Aeroflot.



The Peninsula was already full...




...so we went to Chunking Mansions instead.




Hong Kong island seen from Kowloon.




Last moments before sunset.




It was a great idea to go shopping in Mong Kok during the rush hour.




Huge apartment buildings in Kowloon.




We sent all the winter (Moscow) gear back to Finland.




In Hong Kong it's possible to buy beer with your travel card..




..but try to avoid this if possible.




HK by night.




We trekked through a jungle to the rock cliff and met these guys on the way.




Teijo enjoying the view while climbing the 4th pitch.




Our belay slave lives here.




From the last pitch before pushing to the top.




After three hours of climbing we made it to the top.




Abseiling down.



Muddy Streets of Moscow

Posted by ANTTI LOUHI | | Posted On sunnuntai 3. huhtikuuta 2011

First impressions:

- In April Moscow turns into mud and slush but still seems to be and interesting place to visit
- Finns are considered slow but usually trustworthy
- Never show your emotions in public unless you are drinking vodka
- Beer is consumed as food, not alcohol. It is sold in plastic mugs in street corners together with fish snacks
- Record-size concrete apartment buildings are everywhere
- Subway stations are built of marble and gold
- Lada taxis are convenient and cheap
- Moscow is hidden. Without a proper Russian speaking host or a local it's very difficult to find anything special that you can't find in any other big city. We need to thank Ville for this!
- Russians live in a moment. Every dawn is a surprise.



Tolstoi.


First bite of a Russian treat. It was quite good actually.


Russian bureaucracy starts immediatelly. Passport were taken away after 5 minutes of travelling.


Crossing the border in Vainikkala.


Good morning Moscow!


Ville's place.


Soviet style third floor.


Backyard of the Red Square.


On the way to Ville's apartment somewhere in North West Moscow.



Pasha and Ville.


Moscow is packed with old abandoned monuments.


The old Soviet-era subway stations are amazing.


Spending the night out Moscow style!


Enjoying the Escalade.


Next day the Escalade was gone and we had to use the Lada taxis again. These black market vehicles are very affordable and convenient.


Ukrainian restaurant. Perfect food and tasty side dishes.


Before you start the dinner, it's a custom to drink maybe six or seven shots of this harmful-tasting ginger vodka with peppers wrapped up in pig's fat.